Sunday, August 15, 2010

Satchmo Summerfest - New Orleans

New Orleans Redeux.























This is my second time in New Orleans. This time the pretense is to tour Tulane University with my son. The side benefit is the Satchmo Summerfest "happens" to coincide with our visit.

Satchmo Summerfest is Louis "Satchmo" Armstrong's birthday party. What better reason could there be for a celebration in New Orleans. Louis Armstrong was one of Jazz's pioneers and innovators. He was an American and global superstar; a musician and entertainer and one of New Orleans' own son's. On August 4th he would have been 109 years old. Ten years ago the city of New Orleans threw a birthday party for Louis's 100th birthday and it's turned into a yearly event.
















August in the hottest time of the year to go to New Orleans. For the three days we were in town my skin glistened with a high moisture sheen. I was wet to the touch. But I never felt overwhelmed by the heat. I was prepared for Houston kind of heat, the kind of heat and humidity that is suffocating, like having your head wrapped in Saran Wrap so you can barely breath. New Orleans was simply like having a hot towel on your head all day - and night. The good news is everything was air conditioned. There was no shortage of stores, restaurants or bars to duck into for a cool respite. And many places left their doors wide open spilling their AC right out into the sidewalk.

When I last visited the city it was in the month of April and we feasted on crawdads and oysters. In August crabs and shrimp are what's in season. We had an amazing meal at Emeril Lagasse's restaurant called NOLA with barbecue shrimp and the best gumbo I've ever had.













We also had some very good cajun food at Mulate's and ate the biggest frog leg I've ever seen.


















Tulane has a beautiful campus. It has that Ivy League feel with it's powerful granite buildings and green quads. We spent a nice day there and found some lunch out in Carrollton at a barbecue joint called Squeal.












We took a guided tour of the city which took us into the Upper Ninth ward and Mid-City. We could see the three foot water line from Katrina in these neighborhoods. Our tour guide said they don't give tours into the "deep water" neighborhoods anymore, the places where the water went up to the roof lines. "We are trying to emphasize the positivity," he said. "You understand that?" Yes we nodded, "yes". "Who 'dat!" he responded.

In the Upper Ninth we saw the Harry Connick Jr. sponsored Musicians Village where he's helping to build homes to house the city's working musicians who are the spiritual core of this city. All around town however (outside of the French Quarter and Garden District/Uptown) there are still a lot of homes, stores and empty lots where people and businesses have not returned.

In the Warehouse District we visited the National WWII Museum where we had the privilege and honor of meeting and touring the museum with a 90 year old WWII vet from Minnesota who personally recounted the war for us as we went through the exhibits and looked at the amazing collection of vehicles, weapons, photographs. I don't think I'll ever forget that.















Also in the Warehouse District after dining at Mulate's we came upon White Linen Night which is an event along Julia Street where all the art galleries host a street party - for about 40 thousand of people! It was very elegant and ethereal looking as everyone was attired in white, floating, drinks in hand, in and out of the galleries over an eight block area.


BUT - the star of the show for me again was the music. It envelops everything. New Orleans for me for me is like slipping into a hot tub. I just want to sit there and soak it all in and let the ambience and atmosphere permeate my soul and envelop me - like the humidity.

I saw my man Kermit Ruffins, the Louis Armstrong of his generation. We listened to the Japanese Louis Armstrong too, Mr. Yoshio Toyama and his Dixie Saints band who flew in especially to perform at the festival. I was most excited to see the Rebirth Brass Band and they did not disappoint. In fact it was one of those rare times where the reality of something exceeds your expectation. Those cats can blow! And they are consummate entertainers. They only stopped playing twice in an hour long show. They were like a funky brass freight train that steamrolled right over me and left my ears ringing.

On Friday night on Frenchmen Street was the Satchmo Club Strut. One wristband got you into all the clubs on the street and the chance to see over 100 bands as they rotated in and out of the clubs. Plus, brass bands paraded up and down the street spawning spontaneous Second Line parades. This was the kind of New Orleans night that blends dreams with reality. Even a brief but powerful thunderstorm could not diminish the party or stop the enthusiasm because the rain itself danced in the streets as it hit the pavement.





New Orleans is funky and genteel. It's a gumbo of cultures from the Upper Ninth to the Garden District and from the cool of April to the steam of August. Everywhere, from street corners to clubs to outdoor venues the music pulsates giving the city it's own soundtrack but more importantly fueling the beating heart of this unique city.

.... planning my next visit.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Guadalajara - Tlaquepaque

















Tlaquepaque (Tell-akay-pakay) is a lively neighborhood in southwestern Guadalajara. Once an independent municipality, it was overtaken by the surging growth of Guadalajara in the 20th century.

Locals and tourist flock here to enjoy an afternoon or evening. It features a large plaza called El Parián that is flanked by columned arcades and surrounded by restaurants and bars.

High end shops, art galleries and craft shops abound in the surrounding pedestrian only streets and two beautiful churches bordering on a central park called Jardin Hidalgo reach for the sky.






















We had traveled so much through third world Mexico it was nice to see a different face of the country and enjoy the high end art & food here.

Here's a video of our last day in Mexico - grabbing morning coffee in El Centro and spending the day in Tlaquepaque. We strolled, shopped, ate, drank free tequila samples and of course listened to Mariachi. Mariachi are permanent fixtures in Tlaquepaque. We were serenaded by an all female group at lunch and later Dylan, Drew & I watch another male group while the girls continued to shop.




















A female Mariachi with her beautiful costume.


















Colorful storefronts and facades.





























We ended the day with an amazing meal at Hacienda Real San Pedro along Independencia, the main pedestrian street. Mexican cuisine is of one of the worlds most distinctive and refined and this meal epitomized that. Gourmet all the way. I had a chicken mole dish. The mole was a chocolate cranberry spicy concoction. I don't even know what to say about it. Every bite was a dizzying sensory overload that had me swooning like a school girl.

















- And for one final surprise we were introduced to Mexican wine. Who knew Mexico had vineyards? I had a Barbera red wine from Sonora - and it was excellent.

Viva la Mexico. The landscape, the architecture, the people, the food, the culture and the never ending fiesta's are a feast for the senses. If you go to Mexico plan an excursion away from the beach resorts. You won't be disappointed.

To read about our whole trip start here!

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Guadalajara - El Centro

Guadalajara! I sing the word every time I say it. I sing to the tune of the Mariachi song of the same name. And by now you all know I love the Mariachi music that originated here in the State of Jalisco.

We drove from Ajijic to Guadalajara "the back way", which means we didn't take the direct highway from Chapala to Guadalajara. We drove down along the north shore of Lago de Chapala through Jocotepec and came up into Guadalajara from the south. The countryside was, as usual, gorgeous. We drove through valley's filled with crops and cows, poor villages and the occasional agave field until gradually the city was upon us.

Guadalajara is the second largest city in Mexico with a metropolitan area of 4 million inhabitants. We stayed in the historic district downtown called El Centro where the city was founded in the 16th century. The architecture is monumental and Spanish colonial. I felt like I was in Spain.

















The Cathedral is a highlight of El Centro and is abutted by one of many beautifully designed plazas that are positioned every couple of blocks.





We dropped our bags at the Hotel de Mendoza and promptly lit out looking for food.
It was Ash Wednesday. Molly & I ducked into the ancient Santa Maria de Gracia church (1542) and after some amount of confused conversation we finally got the priest to understand we were Catholic and he smudged us. It was pretty cool.




























It was cold and rainy but that didn't stop us from exploring. We walked down a pedestrian street called Paseo Morelos into the Plaza Tapatia which was lined with shops and restaurants and populated with wonderful sculpture and fountains.



























The pedestrian friendly Paseo Morelos
on a sunny day.

We bought Dylan's buddy a Bimbo sponsored soccer shirt. Bimbo in Mexico is a bread company but to us Norte Americanos it's hilarious. :)





























At the end of Paseo Morelos we lingered at the bronze sculptures of Alejandro Colunga which are situated in front of the Instituto Cultural Cabanas. Each depicts a magician transforming himself into a sofa or chair. They are freaky and fascinating at the same time. He must be related to Tim Burton.


From here we ducked into the Mercado Libertad, better known as Mercado San Juan de Dios (San Juan de Dios Market). It's one of the largest indoor markets in the country with an area of 4000 square meters. It's impossible to describe how large this place is and how much merchandise is available. Each vendor has a small space and they are packed cheek to jowl in endless aisles of variety, color and activity. There are approximately two thousand nine hundred eighty vendor stands in the market, selling clothing, eyeglasses, shoes, movies, video games, CDs, electrical & computer goods, crafts, produce, live animals, produce and prepared foods.


We bought a handmade mandolin for Dylan from a vendor for the equivalent of $70.00US...including a carry case!








As night fell on El Centro the buildings were beautifully lit up making the majestic but austere Spanish architecture light up like a dream. Authority and dominance - and the fearful long arm of the Spanish Inquisition, who could disappear you forever behind these facades, became a distant memory. We were simply left to marvel at the intricate details of these amazing buildings.

















El Centro
Photo by Phillipe Mor


I wanted to show everybody a mariachi band and I had my eye on the Plaza de los Mariachis‎ but we were consistently told not to go. Apparently it's not a place to go at night as a family but we got another recommendation and hunted down Le Epoca De Oro Restaurant Bar Mariachi. I know Molly was suspect but she played along with me and we all had a lot of fun, the food was wonderful...and yes, we were serenaded by a Mariachi Band. Ultimately Molly was extremely taken by the guys with their striking costumes and operatic harmonies.

The streets were alive with pedestrians and music coming out of clubs as we walked back to the hotel. The rain had stopped. We'd had a great adventure on our grand tour of El Centro. We crashed hard when we got back to the hotel...so hard we didn't realize until morning that our mattresses were like slabs of concrete.

The next day we drove out to wonderful neighborhood in southeastern Guadalajara called Tlaquepaque. Read here.


To read about our whole trip from the beginning start here.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Raquete Club, Lake Chapala - A Day In The Life




























Sunrise. The Raquete Club in San Juan Cosala. The sounds of bird song, dogs barking and donkeys braying drift up the hill as the village below comes to life.




























The morning light on a Raquete Club home.





















Afternoon view from Monte Coxala Spa, Raquete Club, San Juan Cosala.



























Siesta....come on, it is Mexico!






















Photo by Ron Russell

Time for a dip.





















Our wonderful hostess Grandauntie Senora Dorothea with her two grandkids.

Next - we're off to explore Guadalajara.

Irish Goddess meets Mexican Gods



























Irish Goddess meets Mexican Gods.

Friday, March 19, 2010

I've Been Everywhere

As Johnny Cash sang "I've been everywhere!"

Well not quite - not even close but this map is pretty cool - and my bucket list includes "everywhere!"







Thursday, March 4, 2010

Ajijic Carnaval Los Toros 2010 (Rodeo in Ajijic, Mexico)

To cap the end of pre-Lent festivities Ajijic holds a rodeo at the Lienzo Charro ring. It's packed with people of all ages - all dressed in fine clothes; dresses, pressed shirts & jeans, cowboy boots & hats. Young boys are smartly dressed like miniature versions of their Charro fathers.

















Us - in the stands

A 20 piece Banda band plays live on stage during the entire event with a bouncy singer proudly crooning over blasts of trumpets, trombones, clarinets, sousaphone, accordion and drums.

A 20 piece band! - at a rodeo! How awesome. (You'll see them in the video below)






















Traditional Charro Yes he's holding a bottle of tequila!


There was plenty of Tacate cervesas (beer) to be had but the local preference was Squirt soda with tequila. Rodeo fans came to their seats carrying big cardboard trays (box bottoms for cases of beer or soda) filled with 6-8 Squirt cans, plastic cups, a bag of ice and a quart of tequila laid flat. After they were seated they filled all the cups with ice and soda and passed them around to their neighbors - then, with everybody holding out their cups the ritual pouring of the tequila took place, it's golden stream arcing into each cup.... nice.























The rodeo was a lively event and the bulls got progressively bigger. Watch the video to see locals jumping in the ring to taunt the bulls and prove their manhood.

The most exciting part of the rodeo starts at 1:29 on the video - and unfortunately I was so caught up in the moment I took my eyes off the video camera and just watched. Listen to the crowd scream at 1:33. The bull targets a horse and rider, gets up under them and launches them out of the bull ring into a crowded alleyway of people. Holy sh@t! You can see the back of the horse in the alley at 1:38 after I realize I'm missing the action and pan the camera over there!



Great experience. I love getting out into community events when I travel and I love seeing this multi-generational way of life in Mexico. It's sad we've lost that in modern America.

We had some tasty street food on the way home. Drew got diarrhea. Ooops. :)



















During our visit we stayed in the beautiful Raquete Club in San Juan Cosala. Next post ...beauty shots. :)

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Ajijic, Mexico

















Beautiful Ajijic. This is my second visit here. See my previous posts for more info.

What a great place to hang out.....

The village is alive with families and kids - and the clip clop of horse shoes on cobble.























I want to get into this Cathedral. It's always locked when I stop by. Maybe I better come by on a Sunday morning.
























Across the street from the Cathedral is an amazing coffee shop, El Cafe Grande Cafe. It smells so good from the sidewalk you can't resist it. The aroma pulls you in by the nose. I didn't miss my Starbucks one bit.
























I love the hand painted facades. They are beautiful. Son bastante.
































































Native weavers set-up down by the lake shore to work and sell their wares.
















The most beautiful weaving's I saw were rugs from Oaxaca. I decided not to buy one here but to wait until I visit Oaxaca to buy one direct from a weaver.























Calle Colon, the main commercial street from the Carraterra to the waterfront.


















Here we are touring Ajijic. In the town plaza is an event for the local horsemen and ranchers who provided the bulls for the upcoming rodeo - then we head to the waterfront. Molly and I end up at Las Caballerizas, high on the mountain in San Juan Cosala overlooking Lake Chapala with the sun setting and a couple strong margaritas. Nice. It's Valentine's day so I wish her Feliz dia de amor.



We missed the final Carnaval parade on Fat Tuesday in which Los Zayacos dance through the streets. The festivities are based on the tradition of Toro de Once when livestock raisers used to drive bulls into town on horseback early in the morning to show off the quality of rodeo stock. Now the townsfolk parade instead with colorful floats, bands and Los Zayacos, who are boys & men dressed up like busty broads or bearded men. Giggling children chase them through the streets and Los Zayacos throw confetti or baking flour back. Eric and Karen from Trans America's Journeys were there. Here's their video.



For more Ajijic Carnaval parade videos from Trans America's Journeys click here.


We did get to the Lienzo Charro (bull ring) to see Los Toros though (the Carnaval rodeo) - see my next post. It's awesome!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Chapala Mexico - Midget Bullfighters Show - Enanitos Toreros

A midget bullfighters show! Who could resist?

The event was at the Lienzo Charro - which I think translates to "Horseman's Canvas," but it was a little bull ring. Very cool. It was filled with families, especially little kids who giggled and laughed at the little people fighting the little cows. I'll never forget it.






















A young Charro ( buckeroo)


























See for yourself! Yes, that's me laughing out loud in the video!



Next we visit Ajijic, a beautiful village on the shore of Lake Chapala.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Ajijic & Chapala Mexico - on Lake Chapala

Back to Ajijic!

5 months after my road-trip into the heart of Mexico, I'm back. This time I flew - with the whole family.

Flying in is so much easier - and so antiseptic compared to driving. No dusty little towns, no road-side shepherds or stops for gas at a PEMEX oasis. See my Mexican road trip posts.

We flew from Boston to Atlanta to Mexico City to Guadalajara - and from there we drove another 20 miles to Lake Chapala. We didn't intend to fly through Mexico City but a snow storm in Atlanta canceled our original flight. Snow in Atlanta ...who knew?

Customs was easy and friendly, bright, clean and modern - very different from driving across the border, in the dark, at Nuevo Laredo those few months ago.

Traveler's note: You NEED to pick up your own luggage from international baggage and check it in again domestically if you are transferring through Mexico City. No one explained that to us. Thank God another couple had the same issue - and they were Mexican's living in Chicago. They helped us navigate the language barrier and opaque instructions. Finally we found our luggage and after missing our intended flight to Guadalajara, caught a later one.

The beauty of Mexico City surprised me. It sits in an enormous bowl surrounded by mountains. The sun was starting to descend in the west giving the whole city a golden glow. The landscape undulated with hills, canyons and small mountains. I expected a big flat expanse like LA but this was definitely more interesting. A tour of Mexico City is now on my "List".





















My son Drew couldn't wait to try a Mexican Coke. It's made from sugar cane instead of corn syrup, and people say that the fizz lasts longer due to the glass bottle. Believe me, it tastes awesome! It tastes like Coke did when I was a kid ...and I'm a sucker for the glass bottles.























Drew in the Mexico City airport.

Arriving on the shores of Lago de Chapala in mid February we get to experience the tail end of Carnaval (yes Carnaval with an "a" not Carnival with an "i"), Carnaval is a full week of celebrations leading up to Lent. Ajijic and Chapala's celebrations involve parades, fiestas and rodeos.

Our first stop, Chapala and it's Malecon (boardwalk).



























Carnaval Parade

















Video of us along the Chapala Malecon - and check out the bowl made of lava rock called a molcajete. Our food is boiling - cheese, peppers, onions, shrimp, octopus. Man that was good with a Corona. And if you listen closely you'll hear the announcer of a soccer match on TV say Gooooooooooooooooooaalllllllll! for like 5 minutes. :)





Next, Midget bullfighters ...really. They are a traveling troupe - and a lot of fun, especially for the kids.

Friday, January 8, 2010

NestleNook Farm in Jackson, NH

NestleNook Farm - a quintessentially New England winter scene in Jackson, NH. I felt part of a Currier & Ives post card. Sleigh rides, skating, downhill skiing, an open fire, red wine. A good place for date night!




Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening

Whose woods these are I think I know.
His house is in the village though;
He will not see me stopping here
To watch his woods fill up with snow.

My little horse must think it queer
To stop without a farmhouse near
Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.

He gives his harness bells a shake
To ask if there is some mistake.
The only other sound's the sweep
Of easy wind and downy flake.

The woods are lovely, dark and deep.
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.

Robert Frost