Sunday, December 11, 2011
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Satchmo Summerfest - New Orleans
New Orleans Redeux.
This is my second time in New Orleans. This time the pretense is to tour Tulane University with my son. The side benefit is the Satchmo Summerfest "happens" to coincide with our visit.
Satchmo Summerfest is Louis "Satchmo" Armstrong's birthday party. What better reason could there be for a celebration in New Orleans. Louis Armstrong was one of Jazz's pioneers and innovators. He was an American and global superstar; a musician and entertainer and one of New Orleans' own son's. On August 4th he would have been 109 years old. Ten years ago the city of New Orleans threw a birthday party for Louis's 100th birthday and it's turned into a yearly event.
August in the hottest time of the year to go to New Orleans. For the three days we were in town my skin glistened with a high moisture sheen. I was wet to the touch. But I never felt overwhelmed by the heat. I was prepared for Houston kind of heat, the kind of heat and humidity that is suffocating, like having your head wrapped in Saran Wrap so you can barely breath. New Orleans was simply like having a hot towel on your head all day - and night. The good news is everything was air conditioned. There was no shortage of stores, restaurants or bars to duck into for a cool respite. And many places left their doors wide open spilling their AC right out into the sidewalk.
When I last visited the city it was in the month of April and we feasted on crawdads and oysters. In August crabs and shrimp are what's in season. We had an amazing meal at Emeril Lagasse's restaurant called NOLA with barbecue shrimp and the best gumbo I've ever had.
We also had some very good cajun food at Mulate's and ate the biggest frog leg I've ever seen.
Tulane has a beautiful campus. It has that Ivy League feel with it's powerful granite buildings and green quads. We spent a nice day there and found some lunch out in Carrollton at a barbecue joint called Squeal.
We took a guided tour of the city which took us into the Upper Ninth ward and Mid-City. We could see the three foot water line from Katrina in these neighborhoods. Our tour guide said they don't give tours into the "deep water" neighborhoods anymore, the places where the water went up to the roof lines. "We are trying to emphasize the positivity," he said. "You understand that?" Yes we nodded, "yes". "Who 'dat!" he responded.
In the Upper Ninth we saw the Harry Connick Jr. sponsored Musicians Village where he's helping to build homes to house the city's working musicians who are the spiritual core of this city. All around town however (outside of the French Quarter and Garden District/Uptown) there are still a lot of homes, stores and empty lots where people and businesses have not returned.
In the Warehouse District we visited the National WWII Museum where we had the privilege and honor of meeting and touring the museum with a 90 year old WWII vet from Minnesota who personally recounted the war for us as we went through the exhibits and looked at the amazing collection of vehicles, weapons, photographs. I don't think I'll ever forget that.
Also in the Warehouse District after dining at Mulate's we came upon White Linen Night which is an event along Julia Street where all the art galleries host a street party - for about 40 thousand of people! It was very elegant and ethereal looking as everyone was attired in white, floating, drinks in hand, in and out of the galleries over an eight block area.
BUT - the star of the show for me again was the music. It envelops everything. New Orleans for me for me is like slipping into a hot tub. I just want to sit there and soak it all in and let the ambience and atmosphere permeate my soul and envelop me - like the humidity.
I saw my man Kermit Ruffins, the Louis Armstrong of his generation. We listened to the Japanese Louis Armstrong too, Mr. Yoshio Toyama and his Dixie Saints band who flew in especially to perform at the festival. I was most excited to see the Rebirth Brass Band and they did not disappoint. In fact it was one of those rare times where the reality of something exceeds your expectation. Those cats can blow! And they are consummate entertainers. They only stopped playing twice in an hour long show. They were like a funky brass freight train that steamrolled right over me and left my ears ringing.
On Friday night on Frenchmen Street was the Satchmo Club Strut. One wristband got you into all the clubs on the street and the chance to see over 100 bands as they rotated in and out of the clubs. Plus, brass bands paraded up and down the street spawning spontaneous Second Line parades. This was the kind of New Orleans night that blends dreams with reality. Even a brief but powerful thunderstorm could not diminish the party or stop the enthusiasm because the rain itself danced in the streets as it hit the pavement.
New Orleans is funky and genteel. It's a gumbo of cultures from the Upper Ninth to the Garden District and from the cool of April to the steam of August. Everywhere, from street corners to clubs to outdoor venues the music pulsates giving the city it's own soundtrack but more importantly fueling the beating heart of this unique city.
.... planning my next visit.
This is my second time in New Orleans. This time the pretense is to tour Tulane University with my son. The side benefit is the Satchmo Summerfest "happens" to coincide with our visit.
Satchmo Summerfest is Louis "Satchmo" Armstrong's birthday party. What better reason could there be for a celebration in New Orleans. Louis Armstrong was one of Jazz's pioneers and innovators. He was an American and global superstar; a musician and entertainer and one of New Orleans' own son's. On August 4th he would have been 109 years old. Ten years ago the city of New Orleans threw a birthday party for Louis's 100th birthday and it's turned into a yearly event.
August in the hottest time of the year to go to New Orleans. For the three days we were in town my skin glistened with a high moisture sheen. I was wet to the touch. But I never felt overwhelmed by the heat. I was prepared for Houston kind of heat, the kind of heat and humidity that is suffocating, like having your head wrapped in Saran Wrap so you can barely breath. New Orleans was simply like having a hot towel on your head all day - and night. The good news is everything was air conditioned. There was no shortage of stores, restaurants or bars to duck into for a cool respite. And many places left their doors wide open spilling their AC right out into the sidewalk.
When I last visited the city it was in the month of April and we feasted on crawdads and oysters. In August crabs and shrimp are what's in season. We had an amazing meal at Emeril Lagasse's restaurant called NOLA with barbecue shrimp and the best gumbo I've ever had.
We also had some very good cajun food at Mulate's and ate the biggest frog leg I've ever seen.
Tulane has a beautiful campus. It has that Ivy League feel with it's powerful granite buildings and green quads. We spent a nice day there and found some lunch out in Carrollton at a barbecue joint called Squeal.
We took a guided tour of the city which took us into the Upper Ninth ward and Mid-City. We could see the three foot water line from Katrina in these neighborhoods. Our tour guide said they don't give tours into the "deep water" neighborhoods anymore, the places where the water went up to the roof lines. "We are trying to emphasize the positivity," he said. "You understand that?" Yes we nodded, "yes". "Who 'dat!" he responded.
In the Upper Ninth we saw the Harry Connick Jr. sponsored Musicians Village where he's helping to build homes to house the city's working musicians who are the spiritual core of this city. All around town however (outside of the French Quarter and Garden District/Uptown) there are still a lot of homes, stores and empty lots where people and businesses have not returned.
In the Warehouse District we visited the National WWII Museum where we had the privilege and honor of meeting and touring the museum with a 90 year old WWII vet from Minnesota who personally recounted the war for us as we went through the exhibits and looked at the amazing collection of vehicles, weapons, photographs. I don't think I'll ever forget that.
Also in the Warehouse District after dining at Mulate's we came upon White Linen Night which is an event along Julia Street where all the art galleries host a street party - for about 40 thousand of people! It was very elegant and ethereal looking as everyone was attired in white, floating, drinks in hand, in and out of the galleries over an eight block area.
BUT - the star of the show for me again was the music. It envelops everything. New Orleans for me for me is like slipping into a hot tub. I just want to sit there and soak it all in and let the ambience and atmosphere permeate my soul and envelop me - like the humidity.
I saw my man Kermit Ruffins, the Louis Armstrong of his generation. We listened to the Japanese Louis Armstrong too, Mr. Yoshio Toyama and his Dixie Saints band who flew in especially to perform at the festival. I was most excited to see the Rebirth Brass Band and they did not disappoint. In fact it was one of those rare times where the reality of something exceeds your expectation. Those cats can blow! And they are consummate entertainers. They only stopped playing twice in an hour long show. They were like a funky brass freight train that steamrolled right over me and left my ears ringing.
On Friday night on Frenchmen Street was the Satchmo Club Strut. One wristband got you into all the clubs on the street and the chance to see over 100 bands as they rotated in and out of the clubs. Plus, brass bands paraded up and down the street spawning spontaneous Second Line parades. This was the kind of New Orleans night that blends dreams with reality. Even a brief but powerful thunderstorm could not diminish the party or stop the enthusiasm because the rain itself danced in the streets as it hit the pavement.
New Orleans is funky and genteel. It's a gumbo of cultures from the Upper Ninth to the Garden District and from the cool of April to the steam of August. Everywhere, from street corners to clubs to outdoor venues the music pulsates giving the city it's own soundtrack but more importantly fueling the beating heart of this unique city.
.... planning my next visit.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Guadalajara - Tlaquepaque
Tlaquepaque (Tell-akay-pakay) is a lively neighborhood in southwestern Guadalajara. Once an independent municipality, it was overtaken by the surging growth of Guadalajara in the 20th century.
Locals and tourist flock here to enjoy an afternoon or evening. It features a large plaza called El Parián that is flanked by columned arcades and surrounded by restaurants and bars.
High end shops, art galleries and craft shops abound in the surrounding pedestrian only streets and two beautiful churches bordering on a central park called Jardin Hidalgo reach for the sky.
We had traveled so much through third world Mexico it was nice to see a different face of the country and enjoy the high end art & food here.
Here's a video of our last day in Mexico - grabbing morning coffee in El Centro and spending the day in Tlaquepaque. We strolled, shopped, ate, drank free tequila samples and of course listened to Mariachi. Mariachi are permanent fixtures in Tlaquepaque. We were serenaded by an all female group at lunch and later Dylan, Drew & I watch another male group while the girls continued to shop.
A female Mariachi with her beautiful costume.
Colorful storefronts and facades.
We ended the day with an amazing meal at Hacienda Real San Pedro along Independencia, the main pedestrian street. Mexican cuisine is of one of the worlds most distinctive and refined and this meal epitomized that. Gourmet all the way. I had a chicken mole dish. The mole was a chocolate cranberry spicy concoction. I don't even know what to say about it. Every bite was a dizzying sensory overload that had me swooning like a school girl.
- And for one final surprise we were introduced to Mexican wine. Who knew Mexico had vineyards? I had a Barbera red wine from Sonora - and it was excellent.
Viva la Mexico. The landscape, the architecture, the people, the food, the culture and the never ending fiesta's are a feast for the senses. If you go to Mexico plan an excursion away from the beach resorts. You won't be disappointed.
To read about our whole trip start here!
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Guadalajara - El Centro
Guadalajara! I sing the word every time I say it. I sing to the tune of the Mariachi song of the same name. And by now you all know I love the Mariachi music that originated here in the State of Jalisco.
We drove from Ajijic to Guadalajara "the back way", which means we didn't take the direct highway from Chapala to Guadalajara. We drove down along the north shore of Lago de Chapala through Jocotepec and came up into Guadalajara from the south. The countryside was, as usual, gorgeous. We drove through valley's filled with crops and cows, poor villages and the occasional agave field until gradually the city was upon us.
Guadalajara is the second largest city in Mexico with a metropolitan area of 4 million inhabitants. We stayed in the historic district downtown called El Centro where the city was founded in the 16th century. The architecture is monumental and Spanish colonial. I felt like I was in Spain.
The Cathedral is a highlight of El Centro and is abutted by one of many beautifully designed plazas that are positioned every couple of blocks.
We dropped our bags at the Hotel de Mendoza and promptly lit out looking for food.
It was Ash Wednesday. Molly & I ducked into the ancient Santa Maria de Gracia church (1542) and after some amount of confused conversation we finally got the priest to understand we were Catholic and he smudged us. It was pretty cool.
It was cold and rainy but that didn't stop us from exploring. We walked down a pedestrian street called Paseo Morelos into the Plaza Tapatia which was lined with shops and restaurants and populated with wonderful sculpture and fountains.
The pedestrian friendly Paseo Morelos on a sunny day.
We bought Dylan's buddy a Bimbo sponsored soccer shirt. Bimbo in Mexico is a bread company but to us Norte Americanos it's hilarious. :)
At the end of Paseo Morelos we lingered at the bronze sculptures of Alejandro Colunga which are situated in front of the Instituto Cultural Cabanas. Each depicts a magician transforming himself into a sofa or chair. They are freaky and fascinating at the same time. He must be related to Tim Burton.
As night fell on El Centro the buildings were beautifully lit up making the majestic but austere Spanish architecture light up like a dream. Authority and dominance - and the fearful long arm of the Spanish Inquisition, who could disappear you forever behind these facades, became a distant memory. We were simply left to marvel at the intricate details of these amazing buildings.
El Centro
Photo by Phillipe Mor
I wanted to show everybody a mariachi band and I had my eye on the Plaza de los Mariachis but we were consistently told not to go. Apparently it's not a place to go at night as a family but we got another recommendation and hunted down Le Epoca De Oro Restaurant Bar Mariachi. I know Molly was suspect but she played along with me and we all had a lot of fun, the food was wonderful...and yes, we were serenaded by a Mariachi Band. Ultimately Molly was extremely taken by the guys with their striking costumes and operatic harmonies.
The streets were alive with pedestrians and music coming out of clubs as we walked back to the hotel. The rain had stopped. We'd had a great adventure on our grand tour of El Centro. We crashed hard when we got back to the hotel...so hard we didn't realize until morning that our mattresses were like slabs of concrete.
The next day we drove out to wonderful neighborhood in southeastern Guadalajara called Tlaquepaque. Read here.
To read about our whole trip from the beginning start here.
We drove from Ajijic to Guadalajara "the back way", which means we didn't take the direct highway from Chapala to Guadalajara. We drove down along the north shore of Lago de Chapala through Jocotepec and came up into Guadalajara from the south. The countryside was, as usual, gorgeous. We drove through valley's filled with crops and cows, poor villages and the occasional agave field until gradually the city was upon us.
Guadalajara is the second largest city in Mexico with a metropolitan area of 4 million inhabitants. We stayed in the historic district downtown called El Centro where the city was founded in the 16th century. The architecture is monumental and Spanish colonial. I felt like I was in Spain.
The Cathedral is a highlight of El Centro and is abutted by one of many beautifully designed plazas that are positioned every couple of blocks.
We dropped our bags at the Hotel de Mendoza and promptly lit out looking for food.
It was Ash Wednesday. Molly & I ducked into the ancient Santa Maria de Gracia church (1542) and after some amount of confused conversation we finally got the priest to understand we were Catholic and he smudged us. It was pretty cool.
It was cold and rainy but that didn't stop us from exploring. We walked down a pedestrian street called Paseo Morelos into the Plaza Tapatia which was lined with shops and restaurants and populated with wonderful sculpture and fountains.
The pedestrian friendly Paseo Morelos on a sunny day.
We bought Dylan's buddy a Bimbo sponsored soccer shirt. Bimbo in Mexico is a bread company but to us Norte Americanos it's hilarious. :)
At the end of Paseo Morelos we lingered at the bronze sculptures of Alejandro Colunga which are situated in front of the Instituto Cultural Cabanas. Each depicts a magician transforming himself into a sofa or chair. They are freaky and fascinating at the same time. He must be related to Tim Burton.
From here we ducked into the Mercado Libertad, better known as Mercado San Juan de Dios (San Juan de Dios Market). It's one of the largest indoor markets in the country with an area of 4000 square meters. It's impossible to describe how large this place is and how much merchandise is available. Each vendor has a small space and they are packed cheek to jowl in endless aisles of variety, color and activity. There are approximately two thousand nine hundred eighty vendor 
stands in the market, selling clothing, eyeglasses, shoes, movies, video games, CDs, electrical & computer goods, crafts, produce, live animals, produce and prepared foods.
We bought a handmade mandolin for Dylan from a vendor for the equivalent of $70.00US...including a carry case!
As night fell on El Centro the buildings were beautifully lit up making the majestic but austere Spanish architecture light up like a dream. Authority and dominance - and the fearful long arm of the Spanish Inquisition, who could disappear you forever behind these facades, became a distant memory. We were simply left to marvel at the intricate details of these amazing buildings.
El Centro
Photo by Phillipe Mor
I wanted to show everybody a mariachi band and I had my eye on the Plaza de los Mariachis but we were consistently told not to go. Apparently it's not a place to go at night as a family but we got another recommendation and hunted down Le Epoca De Oro Restaurant Bar Mariachi. I know Molly was suspect but she played along with me and we all had a lot of fun, the food was wonderful...and yes, we were serenaded by a Mariachi Band. Ultimately Molly was extremely taken by the guys with their striking costumes and operatic harmonies.
The streets were alive with pedestrians and music coming out of clubs as we walked back to the hotel. The rain had stopped. We'd had a great adventure on our grand tour of El Centro. We crashed hard when we got back to the hotel...so hard we didn't realize until morning that our mattresses were like slabs of concrete.
The next day we drove out to wonderful neighborhood in southeastern Guadalajara called Tlaquepaque. Read here.
To read about our whole trip from the beginning start here.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Raquete Club, Lake Chapala - A Day In The Life
Sunrise. The Raquete Club in San Juan Cosala. The sounds of bird song, dogs barking and donkeys braying drift up the hill as the village below comes to life.
The morning light on a Raquete Club home.
Afternoon view from Monte Coxala Spa, Raquete Club, San Juan Cosala.
Siesta....come on, it is Mexico!
Photo by Ron Russell
Time for a dip.
Our wonderful hostess Grandauntie Senora Dorothea with her two grandkids.
Next - we're off to explore Guadalajara.
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