This is my second time in New Orleans. This time the pretense is to tour Tulane University with my son. The side benefit is the Satchmo Summerfest "happens" to coincide with our visit.
Satchmo Summerfest is Louis "Satchmo" Armstrong's birthday party. What better reason could there be for a celebration in New Orleans. Louis Armstrong was one of Jazz's pioneers and innovators. He was an American and global superstar; a musician and entertainer and one of New Orleans' own son's. On August 4th he would have been 109 years old. Ten years ago the city of New Orleans threw a birthday party for Louis's 100th birthday and it's turned into a yearly event.
August in the hottest time of the year to go to New Orleans. For the three days we were in town my skin glistened with a high moisture sheen. I was wet to the touch. But I never felt overwhelmed by the heat. I was prepared for Houston kind of heat, the kind of heat and humidity that is suffocating, like having your head wrapped in Saran Wrap so you can barely breath. New Orleans was simply like having a hot towel on your head all day - and night. The good news is everything was air conditioned. There was no shortage of stores, restaurants or bars to duck into for a cool respite. And many places left their doors wide open spilling their AC right out into the sidewalk.
When I last visited the city it was in the month of April and we feasted on crawdads and oysters. In August crabs and shrimp are what's in season. We had an amazing meal at Emeril Lagasse's restaurant called NOLA with barbecue shrimp and the best gumbo I've ever had.
We also had some very good cajun food at Mulate's and ate the biggest frog leg I've ever seen.
Tulane has a beautiful campus. It has that Ivy League feel with it's powerful granite buildings and green quads. We spent a nice day there and found some lunch out in Carrollton at a barbecue joint called Squeal.
We took a guided tour of the city which took us into the Upper Ninth ward and Mid-City. We could see the three foot water line from Katrina in these neighborhoods. Our tour guide said they don't give tours into the "deep water" neighborhoods anymore, the places where the water went up to the roof lines. "We are trying to emphasize the positivity," he said. "You understand that?" Yes we nodded, "yes". "Who 'dat!" he responded.
In the Upper Ninth we saw the Harry Connick Jr. sponsored Musicians Village where he's helping to build homes to house the city's working musicians who are the spiritual core of this city. All around town however (outside of the French Quarter and Garden District/Uptown) there are still a lot of homes, stores and empty lots where people and businesses have not returned.
In the Warehouse District we visited the National WWII Museum where we had the privilege and honor of meeting and touring the museum with a 90 year old WWII vet from Minnesota who personally recounted the war for us as we went through the exhibits and looked at the amazing collection of vehicles, weapons, photographs. I don't think I'll ever forget that.
Also in the Warehouse District after dining at Mulate's we came upon White Linen Night which is an event along Julia Street where all the art galleries host a street party - for about 40 thousand of people! It was very elegant and ethereal looking as everyone was attired in white, floating, drinks in hand, in and out of the galleries over an eight block area.
BUT - the star of the show for me again was the music. It envelops everything. New Orleans for me for me is like slipping into a hot tub. I just want to sit there and soak it all in and let the ambience and atmosphere permeate my soul and envelop me - like the humidity.
I saw my man Kermit Ruffins, the Louis Armstrong of his generation. We listened to the Japanese Louis Armstrong too, Mr. Yoshio Toyama and his Dixie Saints band who flew in especially to perform at the festival. I was most excited to see the Rebirth Brass Band and they did not disappoint. In fact it was one of those rare times where the reality of something exceeds your expectation. Those cats can blow! And they are consummate entertainers. They only stopped playing twice in an hour long show. They were like a funky brass freight train that steamrolled right over me and left my ears ringing.
On Friday night on Frenchmen Street was the Satchmo Club Strut. One wristband got you into all the clubs on the street and the chance to see over 100 bands as they rotated in and out of the clubs. Plus, brass bands paraded up and down the street spawning spontaneous Second Line parades. This was the kind of New Orleans night that blends dreams with reality. Even a brief but powerful thunderstorm could not diminish the party or stop the enthusiasm because the rain itself danced in the streets as it hit the pavement.
New Orleans is funky and genteel. It's a gumbo of cultures from the Upper Ninth to the Garden District and from the cool of April to the steam of August. Everywhere, from street corners to clubs to outdoor venues the music pulsates giving the city it's own soundtrack but more importantly fueling the beating heart of this unique city.
.... planning my next visit.
